Sunday, April 29, 2007

Major-Scale Fingering Patterns

Hello Barrett,
I just bought GFW, and since I like the workbook approach, I just ordered your other 2 books.

I'm just curious, should each exercise be repeated a certain amount of times before moving on to the next one?

Also, one thing that has always confused me about learning scales is that not every author uses the same scale system. Mark John Sternal uses a 3-note-per-string/7 position system, Uncle Tim's books use three positions for diatonic scales (and two positions for pentatonics), while you use 5 to cover the root centers like Fretboard Logic. Should all the various scale systems be learned in addition to the one in your books?



On the first question (
should each exercise be repeated a certain amount of times):

M
y subjective opinion is that more practice of every imaginable type is better, including written exercise beyond all the fill-it-in diagrams that are in the book as is.

You could redraw any new shapes on blank paper and then play them every day for a week or two (or three), until they are committed to memory. Visualize scale fingerings away from the instrument, verbally describe the names of the notes and what strings and frets they are on, and even try teaching them to a friend. That really helps cement the information.

The idea is similar to the Olympic luge racers who use video and visualization to mentally rehearse each section of their course rather than just sledding down the course over and over.

There is not a specific number of repetitions that I'm sure will do the trick for any particular item. Beyond a certain point, rote repetition can cause you to tune out mentally. Do a lot of practicing of course, but as soon as possible make small variations in your approach, like starting a scale from each of its possible notes, starting from the high notes and descending, using different tempos, different rhythms like triplets, applying it over chord progressions, and so on.

Now I'll take a crack at the second question: (
Should all the various scale systems be learned in addition to the one in your books?):

The short answer is that the 5-pattern system is most important, but I do also practice the popular 3-note-per-string/7-position scales that you mention are in Mr. Sternal's book, along with other patterns. They are all useful in some way.

The 5-pattern or CAGED system is easiest for relating melodies to the underlying chords, which you'll find out more about when you look at Chord Tone Soloing. You'll probably agree that melody should take precedence over physical concerns.

That said, the 3-note-per-string scales have a certain symmetry that makes them easy to learn and practice. They also let you economy-pick and use lots of hammerons and pulloffs, so they're good for playing fast.

Take your time and really learn the 5 patterns. After the 5 patterns of scales are ingrained you will know where the notes are, so then it's not so hard to connect one pattern to the next. While playing pattern 1, you have to be visualizing pattern 2 so you can move up into it without a glitch. The 3-note-per-string patterns do exactly that: cross from one root shape to the next.

I like knowing where the root is, keeping track of it when playing any pattern. Try yelling out the word "root" whenever you hit that note. Remember, the root is not the lowest note in the pattern. It's the note that is circled in the diagrams, it's the point of musical resolution, it's the "bits" in "Shave and haircut, two bits," and so on. I'm sure you knew that, but I'm playing it safe here.

It's also cool to (later) work out some 4-note-per-string scale fingering patterns. These use all 4 fingers on each string and move through most of the guitar's range. You could crudely call this "Holdsworth" fingering.

Another thing that's useful (but somewhat counterintuitive) is to start high up on the neck (say F on the 13th fret with your 2nd finger) and then play up a major scale using two notes per string only. This forces your hand to move away from the body as you ascend, moving you down from pattern 4 into pattern 3, and so on. You could crudely call this "Django" fingering.

I'm unfortunately not familiar with Uncle Tim's books, so I'm not qualified to comment on his scale presentation. On the surface I can't see how you could easily cover the entire neck with only two patterns of pentatonic scales.
I'm not accusing Uncle Tim of this, but I've seen books where some areas of the fingerboard have to be skipped over.

Maybe he uses 3-note-per-string pentatonics, which I'd consider pretty advanced. They require a lot of stretching, and sort of interfere with the standard repertoire of pentatonic blues licks, but they would cover the entire fingerboard.


It could be that he is thinking of something different from me by the word "pattern," which I suppose could mean any collection of fingerboard locations that you're trying to remember. For me, it's something you can play in one spot on the fretboard, with a minimum of position-changing.

5 comments:

Daniel said...

Hello Barret,

First, I want to tell you that your GFW book is one of most successful books that I ever found about learning guitar. Thanks !
I'm studying alone - no teacher. I have some difficulties though in understanding the purpose of root shapes. What is the logic behind root shapes ? Why they are there ?
And another question - about building major scale patterns. According to major scale formula it goes WWH,WWWH. When I look at major D pattern (p.24) I see completely different picture,nothing that looks even close to the formula. Why is that ? The bok doesn't explain that one very clearly.
Thanks in advance for your answer.

Anonymous said...

Hi, i also am stuck on page 24, i am teaching myself and i understand the wwh wwwh pattern but the first example of D major patter 1, i tried every which way i can think of and i dont see the wwh wwwh pattern going up and down the scale, im trying to figure out where am i suppose to start. From the root i assumed and should i count up or down but either way it ends up looking like its not wwh wwwh, can you please further explain how to do this exercise, i can tell this one is really important and if i can figure it out it will advance my playing tremendously! Thanks for the great book and i really am learning alot from it and doing the exercises:)

Barrett Tagliarino said...

Hi Anonymous Reader!
Thanks for writing, and of course, thanks for buying and using my book.

Here's a little help with drawing those major scale fingering patterns.

First, please make sure you're strong on the basics that you'll need before you start:

1) The root shapes from Chapter 2.

2) The major scale formula: all whole steps except for half
steps from 3-4 and 7-8.
1 2 3^4 5 6 7^8, introduced on page 20 as a one-string scale pattern.

3) How to play whole steps and half steps when changing strings. (This is covered on page 23.)

Make sure you've memorized those 3 things first. The exercise will be confusing unless you know them pretty well. Now we'll walk through the scale-building exercise (Ex 12.1) one step at a time.

The D roots are on the 2nd string, 3rd fret, and the 5th string, 5th fret. Let's find the root shape first and put those circles in. Here’s how it looks in tablature.

E ---------|
B --3------|
G ---------|
D ---------|
A -----5---|
E ---------|

At this point we have two roots. When building a scale, the lowest one is the easiest to start from, because it is from there we can count up the entire major scale formula.

We'll start with the lower root (on the 5th string 5th fret) as "1." The scale from this note will proceed 1 2 3^4 5 6 7^8. (Half steps from 3-4 and 7-8.)

Unlike in Chapter 6, we now want to stay put, so the hand is in position to play the higher root when we get there. No moving around. So, the lower root ("note 1") should be played on string 5, fret 5, with the PINKY or 4th finger.

The fingering is given below the tablature. LH means "Left Hand."

E ---------|
B ---------|
G ---------|
D ---------|
A --5------|
E ---------|
LH: 4

Note 2 is a whole step higher. We are already using the 4th finger for note 1, so (as we learned on page 23) we can play a whole step on the next string (string 4) at fret 2. This note should be played with the index finger. Remember
you're looking at tablature here. It's different from a neck diagram---the notes are written in the order you play them.

E ----------|
B ----------|
G ----------|
D -----2----|
A --5-------|
E ----------|
LH: 4 1


Note 3 is a whole step up from note 2. This too can be played on string 4, with the ring finger at fret 4.

E ----------|
B ----------|
G ----------|
D ----2-4---|
A --5-------|
E ----------|
LH: 4 1 3


Note 4 is a half step from note 3. This is just one fret higher and so should be played with the pinky finger.

E -----------|
B -----------|
G -----------|
D ----2-4-5--|
A --5--------|
E -----------|
LH: 4 1 3 4

From 4 to 5 is a whole step, so we must ascend to string 3, three frets down the neck as we did before. So step 5 is on string 3, fret 2. Index finger.

E -------------|
B -------------|
G ----------2--|
D ----2-4-5----|
A --5----------|
E -------------|
LH: 4 1 3 4 1

5 to 6 is a whole step, which we can play also on string 3, two frets above the previous note, with the ring finger.

E --------------|
B --------------|
G ----------2-4-|
D ----2-4-5-----|
A --5-----------|
E --------------|
LH: 4 1 3 4 1 3


6 to 7 is a whole step, but we just used our ring finger. Using the pinky finger on the same string (without stretching or shifting) will only get us a half step. So we
play note 7 on the 2nd string at fret 2. As shown on page 23 of the book, this gives us a whole step when crossing from string 3 to string 2.

E ----------------|
B --------------2-|
G ----------2-4---|
D ----2-4-5-------|
A --5-------------|
E ----------------|
LH: 4 1 3 4 1 3 1


From 7 to 8 is a half step, which we can play with the middle finger on string 2, fret 3.

E ------------------|
B --------------2-3-|
G ----------2-4-----|
D ----2-4-5---------|
A --5---------------|
E ------------------|
LH: 4 1 3 4 1 3 1 2

At this point we have played/drawn one octave's worth of scale, from D to D. The guitar has more D major scale notes available in this position above what we've drawn. To continue the scale higher we count up the formula again, treating note 8 as the new "1."

E ----------------|
B -3--------------|
G ----------------|
D ----------------|
A ----------------|
E ----------------|

From 1 to 2 in the scale is a whole step; a two fret distance. We play note 2 with our 4th finger at fret 5 of string 2.

E ----------------|
B -3-5------------|
G ----------------|
D ----------------|
A ----------------|
E ----------------|
LH:2 4

From 2 to 3 in the scale is also a whole step. This is a 3-fret distance down the fretboard when going from string 2 to string 1. Use your index finger for the last note in this tab.

E -----2----------|
B -3-5------------|
G ----------------|
D ----------------|
A ----------------|
E ----------------|
LH:2 4 1

From 3 to 4 in the scale formula is a half step, a one-fret distance on the same string. We’ll play it with the second finger.

E -----2-3--------|
B -3-5------------|
G ----------------|
D ----------------|
A ----------------|
E ----------------|
LH:2 4 1 2

The highest D major scale note we can reach without shifting or stretching is the 5th, which is a whole step above note 4. The little finger plays this at the 5th fret.

E -----2-3-5------|
B -3-5------------|
G ----------------|
D ----------------|
A ----------------|
E ----------------|
LH:2 4 1 2 4

To get the available D major scale notes BELOW the lower root, we count the major scale formula backwards, treating this low "1" as "8." Again, we'll be counting DOWN the major scale formula from 8 to 1.
8^7 6 5 4^3 2 1

E ---------|
B ---------|
G ---------|
D ---------|
A --5------|
E ---------|
LH: 4

From 8 to 7 is a half step (one fret when played on the same string). We can play note 7 on string 5, fret 4, with the ring finger.

E ---------|
B ---------|
G ---------|
D ---------|
A --5-4----|
E ---------|
LH: 4 3

From 7 to 6 is a whole step. We can play that with the index finger on fret 2.

E ----------|
B ----------|
G ----------|
D ----------|
A --5-4-2---|
E ----------|
LH: 4 3 1

6 to 5 is a whole step. To follow the "no shifting" rule we have to play this on string 6, at fret 5. Pinky finger.

E -----------|
B -----------|
G -----------|
D -----------|
A --5-4-2----|
E --------5--|
LH: 4 3 1 4

5 to 4 is a whole step. That's two frets down; at fret 3 on string 6. Play it with your 2nd (middle) finger.

E ------------|
B ------------|
G ------------|
D ------------|
A --5-4-2-----|
E --------5-3-|
LH: 4 3 1 4 2


Finally we can use our index finger to play one last half step to get from 4 to 3.

E ---------------|
B ---------------|
G ---------------|
D ---------------|
A --5-4-2--------|
E --------5-3-2--|
LH: 4 3 1 4 2 1

When all notes are included, from root to root as well as those we can reach above or below without shifting, we have created fingering pattern 1 of the D major scale.

E -----------------------------2-3-5-|
B -----------------------2-3-5-------|
G -------------------2-4-------------|
D -------------2-4-5-----------------|
A -------2-4-5-----------------------|
E -2-3-5-----------------------------|
LH:1 2 4 1 3 4 1 3 4 1 3 1 2 4 1 2 4

I suggest taking a break now, and reviewing this process and the scale pattern it creates every day for a week or longer.

When you are clear on it and can play the scale from memory, start the entire process again with pattern 2 of the D major scale. The roots are on string 5, fret 5, and string 3, fret 7. The lower root should be played with the second finger.

E ---------------|
B ---------------|
G -----7---------|
D ---------------|
A --5------------|
E ---------------|


Thanks again and please let me know if this works for you.
Barrett

Anonymous said...

Thanks! i realized i wasnt starting from the lowest root note just from the lowest note. I think from other scales ive done they usually start and end there so i overlooked that part. I also went back to better memorize the root shapes and it all makes more sense now. Im going to practice all the major scale patterns like this for awhile before moving on. Ive been pretty close to breaking to the next level but its been hard to grasp it all to where it really clicks and i know what im doing. Really i just want to figure out when i play something i like where im at with it so i can know how to elaborate on it or add other things that would sound nice with it. Your book has already helped open some things up for me and i really appreciate the time you took to explain that thanks so much!

Anonymous said...

Awsome, I to was stuck on this part of the book and getting a bit desperate on finding an awnser. I figured out how to go from the root cord highest on the neck down to the 1st string but could not figure out how to get the shapes before the first root shape. Oh..after I bought this book, I took it to my instructor who has the mi press modes book and this totally rocked his world. He has rebuilt his entire teaching scheme around the fretboard and modes book. I am ahead of him with it so he hasn't had a chance to hit this part yet so maybe the roles will be reversed soon lol.
Thanks for your help and the creation of this wonderful book.

Barrett Tagliarino

Barrett Tagliarino